Mark Hendrickson
Product leader for technology startups based in Barcelona, Spain

Camí dels Bons Homes

Duration
10 days (8 hiking, 2 rest)
Start
August 21, 2020
End
September 1, 2020
Distance
225.8km
Ascent
8,555m
Descent
9,260m

In late August 2020, I set out with a couple of friends to walk the “Camí dels Bons Homes”, or GR 107, that runs 226km from the north of Catalonia to the south of France through the Pyrenees.

The trail is divided into 10 stages that start in Berga, Spain and end in Foix, France. We expected these stages to map roughly to 10 days of full-time hiking. However, we ended up pausing for two days of rest between stages (in first Gòsol then Bellver de Cerdanya) and consolidating four of the stages into two. This netted out to the same 10 days total with only eight on the trail and an average of 28km per day.

The hike overall was challenging mainly for its daily length and near constant rises and falls that, while not extreme in altitude gain or loss, wore on us from the start. I personally maintained general leg and body strength throughout the trip without severe fatigue or pain. However, I hobbled towards my destination over the final hours of several stages due to the throbbing foot pain that came from wearing a backpack over so many hours and kilometers.

The trail also isn’t terribly remote since it passes along trafficked roads and through small towns on a daily basis. However, tackling it at the very end of the summer tourist season meant that towns on the French side specifically were almost completely deserted. While we had no problem finding amenities on the Catalan side from Berga through Bellver de Cerdenya, choices became very sparse upon crossing the border into France from Porta to Foix. I resorted to surviving on trail mix for lunch, so make sure to pack a bunch (or something equivalent like energy bars) if you go in the off-season.

Rather surprisingly, we encountered no one else planning to complete the GR 107, going in either direction. We passed only small groups of day hikers near the various towns; otherwise the trail was enjoyably quiet. When we talked to hostels and restaurants in the various towns, they indicated how packed things had just been the previous week due to the August vacation rush (and despite the COVID-19 pandemic). But we had missed that crowd by just a few days, coincidentally earning everything almost to ourselves.

We realized quickly on the first day that while we had planned to camp with tents throughout the trip, the stages and laws are laid out in such a way that makes it difficult to avoid staying and eating in town on most days. We offloaded our tent and cooking gear after the first stage to save on weight, staying in hostels every night apart from two. While this turned out to make the whole trip quite pleasant, it also imposed an unforeseen budgeting expense.

In hindsight, had we wanted to continue with the tenting plan, we probably could have figured out a way to stagger the stages such that we finished outside of towns everyday. However, we would have faced the problem of buying food reliably, especially after crossing into France where supermarkets became virtually non-existent and most food options came packaged with hostel stays as dinner and breakfast.

Reservations here were often preferred or required, with prices ranging from €38 to €120, with Bellver de Cerdanya and Montségur on the higher end. You may be able to wing things as we did, but it seems safer to book them ahead of time and carry a phone for calling ahead and making adjustments as necessary.

In the end, one of our friends dropped out in Gósol after the first stage having discovered quickly that he wasn’t in the physical shape needed to continue. The other two of us continued to Porta where my second friend caught a taxi then train from Latour-de-Carol back to Barcelona. I proceeded to finish the second half of the trail leading to Foix alone.

The weather was generally very comfortable, during both night and day, with only two stormy evenings in France where shelter was necessary. I didn’t end up using any stove or tents, nor my cold weather clothes or jacket, so we could have left most of that at home from the start. The Spanish side was considerably sunnier and hotter than the French one, where things got chilly and foggy during the day. The trail regularly crossed towns and highways, so it would have been hard to get caught in a compromising situation without finding help nearby.

Below is a day-by-day breakdown of our experience as it unfolded with map in hand.

Barcelona to Berga

Day #
0
Stage
Distance
Ascent
Descent
Duration
1.5 hours on bus
Lunch
Dinner

Restaurant Ski

Accommodations

Alva Hotel (reservation)

Start date
August 21, 2020
End date
August 21, 2020

We caught a bus from Barcelona Nord after work on a Friday evening having made reservations at an economic hotel in Berga that appeared relatively close to the trailhead.

The hotel was affordable and comfortable, though we could have picked one closer to the bus station after all since our third travel companion ended up picking us up the following morning in his car before heading to the trailhead together.

We dined at the closest place recommended by someone in the street after disembarking the bus at the center of town rather late in the evening. The staff was very friendly and we filled up on pizza and tapas.

Our first logistical mistake of the trip: we should have purchased lunch and dinner food for the first stage / following day before boarding the bus since we arrived too late for supermarkets. And on the following day we expected to head straight to the trailhead, where there weren’t any stores.

Luckily we had small sandwiches on hand that would cover us for lunch, but having no dinner supplies meant we had no choice but to complete the first, long stage of hiking in a single day instead of giving our chance to pause in the middle.

Backpack
Trail mix
Waiting for David
David arrives
[1.812,40.609]
36.00
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4.5

Berga to Gósol and rest day

Day #
1-2
Stage

Santuari de Queralt (Berga) to Gósol

Distance
29.36km
Ascent
1,325m
Descent
1,150m
Duration
8h 11m (Predicted)
Lunch

Sandwiches

Dinner

Hostal Cal Franciscó (walk-in)

Accommodations

Hostal Cal Franciscó (walk-in)

Start date
August 22, 2020
End date
August 23, 2020

This was one of the longest days of the whole trail. We started around 10am but would have benefited from starting earlier around 8am, as well as taking shorter breaks throughout the day. While our map estimated “only” about 8 hours of hiking, we ended up finishing after dark around 11pm.

The trail has a tendency to fork off from the obvious path without obvious markers a lot of times. It’s worth keeping your head up and looking for markers as well as carrying a GPS device to get back on track when you’ll inevitably miss them.

Apparently many people divide this day into two, camping somewhere along the trail between the towns. There were certainly various areas to do so, though as with the entire trail through Catalonia, it’s illegal to free camp away from official campsites, where you typically have to pay. So it’s a minor risk to take.

The final leg upon finishing the descent and heading towards Gósol felt surprisingly long, so don’t underestimate this point of the journey mentally.

Our hostel in Gósol had lots of amenities. We were very happy to arrive just in time for a full dinner and drinks before booking a room.

We spent the following day resting up and seeing whether one of our travel companions, who had to hitchhike the stretch of highway from L’Espà to Gósol the previous evening, would rally and continue onwards. While small, the town is very pleasant with various shops and restaurants open on Sundays until early afternoon at least.

It’s worth climbing up to the castle for views of the surrounding area.

Camí dels Bons Homes ⛰
Down below
Halfway to Gòsol
After the first hill
[1.812,40.609]
36.00
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4.5

Gósol to Bagà

Day #
3
Stage

Gósol to Bagà

Distance
23.8km
Ascent
610m
Descent
1,110m
Duration
6h (Predicted)
Lunch

Bread, cheese and sausage

Dinner

Bar centre

Accommodations

Hostal Cal Batista (walk-in)

Start date
August 24, 2020
End date
August 24, 2020

Compared to the first day of hiking, this one was a walk in the park. The route first snakes around Pedraforca with beautiful sweeping views before beginning a long gradual descent through a forested valley until reaching Bagà, which is medium-sized town with less charm than Gósol but a few more amenities like an outdoor gear shop and grocery store.

While the respite was welcome, this was perhaps my least favorite stage of the trip simply because much of it was spent on gravel road on a decline, which is gets boring at long stretches. We were able to find a nice creek towards the end to dip our toes, a highlight of the day. But otherwise this serves a bit of a “connector” stage past the initial environs of Pedraforca, which are quite pleasant.

There was no need to get up early for this stage. When we arrived in Bagà, however, we found that the campground and first hotel we checked were full already. However, we had success securing a room in the second hotel we tried a bit further south of town center.

Fresh air
Work call
Pedraforca
Winding around Pedraforca
[1.812,40.609]
36.00
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4.5

Bagà to Bellver de Cerdanya and rest day

Day #
3-4
Stage

Bagà to Bellver de Cerdanya

Distance
21.71km
Ascent
1,215m
Descent
966m
Duration
6h 45m (Predicted)
Lunch

Bread, cheese and sausage

Dinner

Pizzeria Sant Roc and Syrah

Accommodations

Hotel Cal Rei de Talló (walk-in)

Start date
August 25, 2020
End date
August 26, 2020

Starting out from Bagà we had to walk up along the hot highway for a good portion of the morning before arriving at the trailhead, which rises up rather continuously aside from a single dip to the ridge of the Serra de Moixeró mountain range before falling gradually down to Bellver de Cerdanya on the other side.

While not as long or difficult as the first day, it was certainly more taxing than the second one, with a few steep stretches of climbing during the first half. We stopped for lunch on the ridge before making our winding way down from the mountain, mainly following gravel roads again but with better views this time and a greater sense of satisfaction.

My friend knew of a place to ride horses in Prats, nearby Bellver de Cerdanya, so we decided to spend the following doing that and otherwise resting up before making our subsequent push over the Pyrenees into France, when we expected to need as much energy as available. It also didn’t hurt that Bellver de Cerdanya was the most beautiful and equipped town of the trip with especially good fine dining options. Make sure to spend at least an hour walking around the historical center.

Into the woods
Bridge crossing
Down below
River walk
[1.812,40.609]
36.00
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4.5

Bellver de Cerdanya to Porta

Day #
5
Stage

Bellver to Cerdanya to Porta

Distance
35.52km
Ascent
1,485m
Descent
1,006m
Duration
8h 26m (Predicted)
Lunch

Bread, cheese and sausage

Dinner

Pasta and seasoning donated in refuge and expired sausage that later made my travel companion sick 🤢

Accommodations

Cabana de Campcardós (walk-in)

Start date
August 27, 2020
End date
August 27, 2020

This stage ranks as the hardest day of the trip, beginning as a simple roadside walk through towns such as Prullans until reaching and following the river-stretch park of La Llosa through the woods and upwards towards Andorra. The vegetation eventually thins out above the alpine line before reaching a remote border-crossing with France at the Portella Blanca and descending into the lush Campcardós valley.

Distance is the main factor here, and while there’s a temptation to take it easy during the first half of the day – and perhaps even dip into the enticing river with crowds of day hikers – it behooved us to keep trudging along. However, despite our best efforts, we ended up several kilometers short of Porta on the other side, crashing instead at the first and only unattended refuge we’d see along the entire route, just as sky was going dark and our feet were giving out.

The refuge was clean and modern, and we found some pasta and seasoning that was left over by other hikers and used the refuge’s supplies to cook dinner over a wood stove.

Prullans
Berry picking
Alpine
Border crossing
[1.812,40.609]
36.00
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4.5

Porta to Mérens-les-Vals

Day #
7
Stage

Porta to Mérens-les-Vals

Distance
21.91km
Ascent
635m
Descent
1,059m
Duration
6h 24m (Predicted)
Lunch

Le Campcardos

Dinner

Auberge du Nabre (walk-in)

Accommodations

Auberge du Nabre (walk-in)

Start date
August 28, 2020
End date
August 28, 2020

We woke up at the refuge to beautiful views both up and down the valley, took a quick dip in the nearby river, then walked down the final stretch of the previous stage to Porta where we had lunch at the town’s only hotel and restaurant.

This is where my friend and I parted ways, with him catching a taxi to the Latour-de-Carol train station while I set out alone around 3pm to complete the next stage to Merens-les-Vals with thunderstorms brewing. This became the most exhilarating day of the entire trip since I felt the need to walk very quickly and make it to at least L’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre where I’d gain significant tree cover in the event of lightning and heavy rain.

Fortunately the rain didn’t fall heavily until that night while I was asleep, and aside from occasional thunder in the far-off distance, lightning remained just a motivational specter. Given the speed-walking, I ended up arriving before sundown and finding accommodations in my first gîte d'étape of the trip.

While the map offered a tempting stage variant that rose further up into the mountains instead of following the Ariege river, it didn’t seem prudent to try given the impending thunderstorms. I also encountered rather heavy fog after passing over Porté-Puymorens, which sticked with me for the following couple of days and generally tempered against taking additional risks. The northern, French side of the Pyrenees were much more wet and lush than the southern, Spanish side in general.

River crossing
Shelter
Pantry delights
Final lunch
[1.812,40.609]
36.00
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4.5

Mérens-les-Vals to Refuge Chioula

Day #
8
Stage

All of Mérens-les-Vals to Orgeix and first part of Orgeix to Comús

Distance
26.97km (rough estimate)
Ascent
1,272m (rough estimate)
Descent
1,384m (rough estimate)
Duration
6h 20m (predicted)
Lunch

Trail mix

Dinner

Refuge Chioula (walk-in)

Accommodations

Refuge Chioula (walk-in)

Start date
August 29, 2020
End date
August 29, 2020

This was my first morning heading out alone on the trail, and it was rewarded with one of the best views of the trip, overlooking Mérens-les-Vals and the broader, foggy valley after an initial, steep ascent to a peak above.

The backside of the peak immediately presented me with a warning and recommendation to detour off the trail given tree-cutting work that lay ahead. However, since the weather was good and had some battery left in my GPS device, I chose to forge ahead and descend through the downed forest.

It was a bit tricky stepping over debris and following trail since many of its markers had been destroyed. I probably would have gotten turned around more than once without my GPS device, but luckily its battery lasted long enough and I was able to criss-cross my way down to the road that connected me with Orgeix.

Neither Orgeix (nor subsequently Ascour or Sorgeat) had any food or accommodations to speak of. Upon arriving around lunchtime, I considered a detour to Ax-les-Thermes along the road just a few kilometers away, to eat and perhaps spend the night. But I ultimately decided to survive on my trail mix instead, continuing upwards again along a tougher and steeper stretch of trail than expected until finally arriving at the Refuge Chioula with suffering feet.

With my body aching and storms brewing overhead, I walked into the refuge only to discover that it was manned by a dedicated guard and chef with a complete restaurant menu and services. This was a wonderful surprise, except the guard wasn’t especially happy to see me given my lack of reservation (and his general concern about COVID-19, with security measures plaster all over the place). But the place was nearly empty and he allowed me to stay, preparing a full dinner and breakfast for me, and sheltering me during another heavily rainy night.

Misty Pyrenees
Random truck sighting
Tree felling
Orgeix
[1.812,40.609]
4.50
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4.5

Refuge Chioula to Montségur

Day #
9
Stage

Final part of Orgeix to Comús and all of Comús to Montsegur

Distance
29.70km (rough estimate)
Ascent
758m (rough estimate)
Descent
553m (rough estimate)
Duration
3h 20m (rough prediction)
Lunch

Trail mix

Dinner

Bed and breakfast on Rue du Village on left-hand side upon entering town

Accommodations

Bed and breakfast on Rue du Village on left-hand side upon entering town

Start date
August 30, 2020
End date
August 30, 2020

Upon departing from the refuge the following morning, I wound my way through rolling hills and passed several packs of hunting dogs that were scouring the area for prey of some sort.

The trail rose and fell lightly until reaching Comús, which left me without lunch options as the day before (though featured a large restaurant that had presumably just closed for the season). Munching on my trail mix for lunch again, I started down a long gravel road that would bring me to the start of the Gorges de la Frau, a narrow, serene and lush gorge with striking rock formations that descends steeply until reaching a paved road below.

The paved road took a further toll on my exhausted feet, and prepared me poorly for what felt like the steepest climb of the whole trip, which rose from Pelail up to Montsegur through a dark, muddy wedge of forest.

I had hoped to continue to Roquefixade to get a head start on the subsequent, final day. However, by the time I got up to Montségur, my feet were practically giving out on me.

Montségur was a lovely little town, however, and much more alive than the previous ones I’d seen since crossing over into France. I quickly found an adorable bed and breakfast with an elderly lady who brought me in and cooked for me as if I were in her own home. Arriving a bit earlier than usual around 6pm, I was able to put my feet up and fall asleep immediately after dinner around 8:30pm.

Prades
Prades 2
Montségur
Montségur 2
[1.812,40.609]
36.00
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4.5

Montségur to Foix

Day #
10
Stage

Montsegur to Roquefixade and Roquefixade to Foix

Distance
36.83km (rough estimate)
Ascent
1,255m (rough estimate)
Descent
2,032m (rough estimate)
Duration
9h 58m
Lunch

Trail mix then coffee and dessert at Gîte d'Étape de Roquefixade

Dinner

Au Grilladou

Accommodations

Hôtel Eychenne (walk-in)

Start date
August 31, 2020
End date
August 31, 2020

I finished the trail by combining two stages into one, neither of which was very demanding but together made for the longest day of the hike.

The path to Roquefixade was largely tree-covered and shady, but upon reaching the town, the views opened up widely and sunnily towards the Pyrenees I had left behind. I started to pass many more day hikers on the trail, stopping briefly in Roquefixade for a coffee and dessert (though I had just missed the kitchen for lunch having arrived a bit past 2pm).

Later in the afternoon, I found myself under tree cover again and following a final stretch of gravel road up to Col de Porte-Pa and approaching my final destination of Foix. However, it turned out that the trail was cut off at the very end by a private owner who no longer wanted the trail to run through his property. So I followed the well-marked detour that took me down a steep path to Montgaillard, which is about 4km south of Foix in the valley.

The end of the trail is marked simply by a sign that provides instructions on how to catch a bus to Foix. Unfortunately, I arrived about a half hour after the last bus and Montgaillard seemed void of hotel and dinner options, so I walked up the highway to Foix as my final challenge.

As the sun started to set, I became a bit worried about finding a place to sleep and eat. However, I eventually wandered into the city center and checked into a hotel just off the main open-market plaza before washing up and wandering the old district until finding a pizza and grill place that was still open.

The following day I woke up and enjoyed a bit of the city’s morning bustle charm before walking to the station and catching a train down to Latour-de-Carol, waiting several hours for a bus that took connected me to Ribes de Freser (given construction underway further down the track in Catalonia), and finally arriving back in Barcelona in the early evening.

Montferrier
Roquefixade
Passage Interdit
Foix
[1.812,40.609]
36.00
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4.5
36
4.50
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